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The Easy Lane Tee is an airy crochet t-shirt worked in a classic raglan construction for a smooth, flattering fit. The collar sits just right, not too wide and not too narrow, making this a comfortable tee you can reach for all season long. Rated Easy and including a full video tutorial plus picture aids, this is a stress-free crochet project from start to finish.
If you’ve been looking for a free crochet t-shirt pattern that actually fits well and works up without a headache, the Easy Lane Tee is it.
This airy raglan tee is rated Easy and features evenly spaced increases that flow seamlessly from top to bottom, giving you a smooth, flattering fit every time.
The collar sits just right, not too wide and not too narrow, making this tee as wearable as it is fun to make.
Grab your hook and let’s get into it!
Easy Airy Tee
Free Crochet Pattern Overview:
- Craft: Crochet
- Skill Level: Level 2 - Easy
- Yarn: Weight 4
- Hook: US H/5.0 mm crochet hook
- Gauge: 7.5 linen sts x 14 rows = 4″
- Sizes: 9 Sizes - XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X)
- Downloadable PDF Available
- Full Video Tutorial
DESCRIPTION
The Easy Lane Tee is a seamless, top-down crochet t-shirt that works up beautifully from collar to hem with no sewing required.
The raglan construction keeps things comfortable and breathable, and because you start from the top you can try it on as you go for a fit that feels made for you.
You can easily customize the length to make it more cropped or longer.
A perfect scoop neck sits just right, not too wide and not too narrow, giving this tee an effortlessly polished finish.
Built with simple stitches and an airy design, this pattern is as enjoyable to make as it is to wear, and a full video tutorial is included to walk you through every step.
YARN
The yarn used for the Easy Lane Tee is Lion Brand Yarn Cotton Hemp yarn.
Cotton Hemp yarn is a worsted weight blend of 70% cotton and 30% hemp that is light, breathable, and incredibly drapey.
Each skein contains 164 yards/150 meters and weighs 3.5 oz/100 grams, and the plant-based blend balances the breathability of cotton with the earthy texture of hemp for a finished piece that feels effortless to wear.
Best of all, it is machine washable and lays flat to dry, making it just as easy to care for as it is to stitch up.
If you want to stay up to date on yarn sales and when to get a good price, join my newsletter where I’ll clue you in on when there is a good sale. I love a good sale, so I want gate keep. But I also won’t spam you.
DIFFICULTY
The Easy Lane Tee is considered a Level 2 – Easy pattern.
The tee uses very simple stitches and comes with a full video tutorial to aid you in making it.
You can find that HERE.
The stitches used for this pattern are beginner stitches. Linen stitch is used for the majority of the pattern, which is made up of a sc and a ch-1. The next row, the single crochets are worked into the ch-1 spaces, so it creates a woven effect.
In my premium PDF pattern on etsy, there are 16 picture aids to supplement the pattern, so if you follow along best with still photos, you may want to go that route.
As always, I’m happy to answer any questions! 
FAQ
Is this pattern good for beginners?
While the Easy Lane Tee is rated Easy, having a little prior crochet experience will help you get the most out of this pattern.
If you are still building your skills, the premium PDF includes 16 picture aids throughout to guide you step-by-step, making the Easy Lane Tee very approachable no matter where you are in your crochet journey.
Can I use a different yarn?
Yes, but the gauge of the tee may be affected, so do a gauge swatch so you can meet gauge.
My favorite website to use to find good yarn substations is https://yarnsub.com/
What if my gauge is off?
Too many stitches in a 4″x4″ swatch?
→ The fabric is too tight, so you need to go up a hook size.
Too few stitches in a 4″ x 4″ swatch?
→ The fabric is too loose, so you need to go down a hook size.
Can I sell items from this crochet pattern?
Yes.
MATERIALS
- 505 (555, 620, 700, 765, 825, 915, 990, 1055) yds/4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) balls of Lion Brand Yarn Cotton Hemp yarn, “Mint” (774-168B), weight 4, 70% cotton, 30% hemp, 164 yds/150 m, 3.5 oz/100 g
- US H/5.0 mm crochet hook
- Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
GAUGE
(when blocked)
7.5 linen sts x 14 rows = 4”/10 cm
SIZES
9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X)
SPEACIAL STITCHES
Linen St – *ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, rep from * across.
One Linen St is the pair of ch 1, sc 1 together.
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog) – *insert hook into next st, yo, pull up loop, rep from *, yo, pull through 3 loops.
Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog) – *insert hook into next st, yo, pull up loop, rep from * 2 more times, yo, pull through 4 loops.
TERMINOLOGY
US Crochet Terms Used
ch(s) – chain(s)
rep – repeat
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
NOTES
- Pattern is written for 9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Highlight your size throughout the pattern for ease of reading.
- Model is 5’7”/167.5 cm & is wearing size Medium with a 38”/95 cm bust & 5”/3 cm of positive ease.
- Tee is worked top-down in raglan style with no seams.
- The yoke begins by working in rows to make the back of tee. Increases are then evenly spaced throughout. The two front raglan sections are joined by chs to create the neckline, and the tee is worked in the rnd. The tee is split at the underarm to create the main body of the tee and the two sleeves.
- The sleeves and collar are added in the round at the end.
- When counting sts in the row/rnd for the Yoke, the ch-2 sp for the corner is counted as the ch-1 sp for a linen st and gets counted as part of a linen st for the front/sleeve/back sections.
SKILL LEVEL
Level 2 – Easy
AD-FREE PREMIUM PDF
Check out my shops if you want to get the concise, ad-free, printable pattern. I have three different shops you can purchase it from or you can purchase the Lion Brand Yarn kit that includes all the yarn needed + the free pattern.
Best part about Lion Brand Yarn kits is that you do not have to choose the colors I used for the design.
You can customize the yarn colors to what you like best!
FREE CROCHET TEE PATTERN
Yoke Rows
ch 55 (55, 57, 55, 47, 45, 47, 51, 53)
Row 1 (WS): starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, *sc 1, sk 1, ch 1, rep from * to last ch, sc 1, turn [27 (27, 28, 27, 23, 22, 23, 25, 26) linen sts]
You will now be making the corners for the raglan,
Row 2 (RS): ch 2, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 2, sc 1) in next ch-1 sp (first corner made, place marker in ch-2 sp), working in the ch-1 sps for the rest of the row unless specified otherwise, linen st 4 (4, 4, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) (sleeve), (ch 2, sc 1) in next ch-1 sp (second corner made, place marker in ch-2 sp), linen st 14 (14, 15, 16, 16, 15, 16, 18, 19) (back), (ch 2, sc 1) in next ch-1 sp (third corner made, place marker in ch-2 sp), linen st 4 (4, 4, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) (sleeve), (ch 2, sc 1) in last turning ch (fourth corner made, place marker in ch-2 sp), turn
First Front: 1 linen st
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 4, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) linen sts
Back: 15 (15, 16, 17, 17, 16, 17, 19, 20) linen sts
Second Front: 1 linen st
You will now be increasing in the turning ch-1 for the front ,
Row 3: ch 2, *(sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, linen st across to next corner sp, ch 1, rep from * across to last corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in turning ch, turn [5 inc; 32 (32, 33, 32, 28, 27, 28, 30, 31) linen sts]
First Front: 1 linen st
Sleeves: 6 (6, 6, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) linen sts
Back: 16 (16, 17, 18, 18, 17, 18, 20, 21) linen sts
Second Front: 3 linen sts
Row 4: ch 2, sc in first ch-1 sp, linen st to corner sp, ch 1, *(sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, linen st across to next corner sp, ch 1, rep from * across to last corner sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in turning ch, turn [5 inc; 37 (37, 38, 37, 33, 32, 33, 35, 36) linen sts]
First Front: 3 linen sts
Sleeves: 7 (7, 7, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) linen sts
Back: 17 (17, 18, 19, 19, 18, 19, 21, 22) linen sts
Second Front: 3 linen sts
Row 5: ch 2, sc in first ch-1 sp, linen st to corner sp, ch 1, *(sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, linen st across to next corner sp, ch 1, rep from * across to last corner sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, linen st to last sc, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in turning ch, turn [5 inc; 42 (42, 43, 42, 38, 37, 38, 40, 41) linen sts]
First Front: 3 linen sts
Sleeves: 8 (8, 8, 7, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) linen sts
Back: 18 (18, 19, 20, 20, 19, 20, 22, 23) linen sts
Second Front: 5 linen st
Rows 6-10: rep Row 5 [67 (67, 68, 67, 63, 62, 63, 65, 66) linen sts]
Do not turn after the last row. Do not fasten off.
First Front: 9 linen sts
Sleeves: 13 (13, 13, 12, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) linen sts
Back: 23 (23, 24, 25, 25, 24, 25, 27, 28) linen sts
Second Front: 9 linen sts
Yoke Rounds
The beg of rnd will change to the first corner.
Ch 10 (10, 12, 14, 14, 12, 14, 18, 20), sl st to join in opposite Front in the first ch-1 sp,
Rnd 1 (RS): ch 1 (place marker), sc2tog in first sc and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * across to Front, linen st to last sc before front Yoke chs, ch 1, sc 1 into first ch, **ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 into next ch, rep from ** to last front Yoke ch, ch 1, sc in marked st, linen st to corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner (place marker in ch-2 sp for new beginning of rnd) [76 (76, 78, 78, 74, 72, 74, 78, 80) linen sts; does not include extra sts to move the beg of rnd to the corner]
Front/Back: 24 (24, 25, 26, 26, 25, 26, 28, 29) linen sts
Sleeves: 14 (14, 14, 13, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11) linen sts
For Size XS:
You will now alternate between inc rnds and non-inc rnds. For the non-inc rnds, you will alternate a sc2tog after the corner for the first non-inc rnd and a sc2tog before the corner for the next non-inc rnd to help keep the raglan straight,
(No Inc) Rnd 2: sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp
(No Inc) Rnd 3: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to 1 st before corner sp, ch 1, sc2tog in next ch-1 sp and and corner sp, (ch 2**, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around ending last rep at **
(No Inc) Rnd 4: rep Rnd 2
(Inc) Rnd 5: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp [4 inc; 80 linen sts]
Front/Back: 25 linen sts
Sleeves: 15 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 6: rep Rnd 3
(No Inc) Rnds 7-8: rep Rnds 2-3
(Inc) Rnd 9: rep Rnd 5 [84 linen sts]
Front/Back: 26 linen sts
Sleeves: 16 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnds 10-11: rep Rnds 2-3
(No Inc) Rnd 12: rep Rnd 2
(Inc) Rnd 13: rep Rnd 5 [88 linen sts]
Front/Back: 27 linen sts
Sleeves: 17 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 14: rep Rnd 3, ending the last rnd by not doing the last ch 2
For Size S:
You will now alternate between inc rnds and non-inc rnds. For the non-inc rnds, you will alternate a sc2tog after the corner for the first non-inc rnd and a sc2tog before the corner for the next non-inc rnd to help keep the raglan straight,
(No Inc) Rnd 2: sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp
(No Inc) Rnd 3: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to 1 st before corner sp, ch 1, sc2tog in next ch-1 sp and and corner sp, (ch 2**, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around ending last rep at **
(No Inc) Rnd 4: rep Rnd 2
(Inc) Rnd 5: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp [4 inc; 80 linen sts]
Front/Back: 25 linen sts
Sleeves: 15 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 6: rep Rnd 3
(Inc) Rnd 7: rep Rnd 5 [4 inc; 84 linen sts]
Front/Back: 26 linen sts
Sleeves: 16 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 8: rep Rnd 2
Rnds 9-12: rep Rnds 5-8 [92 linen sts]
Front/Back: 28 linen sts
Sleeves: 18 linen sts
(Inc) Rnd 13: rep Rnd 5 [96 linen sts]
Front/Back: 29 linen sts
Sleeves: 19 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 14: rep Rnd 3, ending the last rnd by not doing the last ch 2
For Size M:
You will now alternate between inc rnds and non-inc rnds. For the non-inc rnds, you will alternate a sc2tog after the corner for the first non-inc rnd and a sc2tog before the corner for the next non-inc rnd to help keep the raglan straight,
(No Inc) Rnd 2: sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp
(Inc) Rnds 3-4: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp [86 linen sts]
Front/Back: 27 linen sts
Sleeves: 16 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 5: s sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to 1 st before corner sp, ch 1, sc2tog in next ch-1 sp and and corner sp, (ch 2**, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around ending last rep at **
(Inc) Rnds 6-7: rep Rnds 3-4 [94 linen sts]
Front/Back: 29 linen sts
Sleeves: 18 linen sts
Rnds 8-13: rep Rnds 2-7 [110 linen sts]
Front/Back: 33 linen sts
Sleeves: 22 linen sts
Rnds 14-15: rep Rnds 2-3, ending the last rnd by not doing the last ch 2 [114 linen sts]
Front/Back: 34 linen sts
Sleeves: 23 linen sts
For Size L:
You will now alternate between inc rnds and non-inc rnds. For the non-inc rnds, you will alternate a sc2tog after the corner for the first non-inc rnd and a sc2tog before the corner for the next non-inc rnd to help keep the raglan straight,
(No Inc) Rnd 2: sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp
(Inc) Rnds 3-5: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp [90 linen sts]
Front/Back: 29 linen sts
Sleeves: 16 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 6: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to 1 st before corner sp, ch 1, sc2tog in next ch-1 sp and and corner sp, (ch 2**, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around ending last rep at ** (Inc) Rnds 7-9: rep Rnds 3-5 [102 linen sts]
Front/Back: 32 linen sts
Sleeves: 19 linen sts
Rnds 10-17: rep Rnds 2-9 [126 linen sts]
Front/Back: 38 linen sts
Sleeves: 25 linen sts
Rnds 18-19: rep Rnds 2-3, ending the last rnd by not doing the last ch 2 [130 linen sts]
Front/Back: 39 linen sts
Sleeves: 26 linen sts
For Size XL:
You will now alternate between inc rnds and non-inc rnds. For the non-inc rnds, you will alternate a sc2tog after the corner for the first non-inc rnd and a sc2tog before the corner for the next non-inc rnd to help keep the raglan straight,
(Inc) Rnds 2-6: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp [94 linen sts]
Front/Back: 31 linen sts
Sleeves: 16 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 7: sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, sc2tog in corner sp and next ch-1 sp, rep from * around, linen st to first corner, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2) in corner sp
(Inc) Rnds 8-13: rep Rnd 2 [118 linen sts]
Front/Back: 37 linen sts
Sleeves: 22 linen sts
(No Inc) Rnd 14: sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to 1 st before corner sp, ch 1, sc2tog in next ch-1 sp and and corner sp, (ch 2**, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around ending last rep at **
Rnds 15-21: rep Rnds 2-7, ending the last rnd by not doing the last ch 2 [142 linen sts]
Front/Back: 43 linen sts
Sleeves: 28 linen sts
For Sizes 2X-5X:
Working in a continuous rnd,
Rnds 2– (-, -, -, -, 22, 23, 25, 26): sc 1 in corner sp, *linen st to corner sp, ch 1, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in corner sp, move marker up to new ch-2 corner sp, rep from * around, linen st first corner, ch 1, sc 1 in corner sp [- (-, -, -, -, 156, 162, 174, 180) linen sts]
Front/Back: – (-, -, -, -, 46, 48, 52, 54) linen sts
Sleeves: – (-, -, -, -, 32, 33, 35, 36) linen sts
Main Body
All Sizes:
You will now separate the Main Body from the sleeves,
Rnd 1 (RS): *ch 5 (7, 5, 3, 3, 3, 7, 7, 11), sk sleeve sts, sc 1 in next corner sp**, linen st to next corner sp, rep from * once more ending rep at **, linen st to end
Rnd 2: *ch 1, sc 1 into first ch, **ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 into next ch, rep from ** across chs, linen st to underarm chs, rep from * once more [60 (66, 74, 82, 90, 96, 104, 112, 120) linen sts]
Rnds 3-43 (43, 42, 40, 40, 40, 40, 38, 37): linen st around
Next Rnd: sc around placing 1 sc in each st and ch, sl st to first sc in rnd to join
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Collar
The exact st count does not matter.
Sl st to join in back of neck,
Rnd 1 (RS): ch 1, sc around placing 1 sc in each st and 1 sc in each row end, place a sc3tog over the 4 corner raglan lines, do not sl st to join
Rnd 2: sc around placing 1 sc in each st, sl st to join
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Sleeves
The exact st count does not matter.
Sl st to join in underarm,
Rnd 1 (RS): ch 1, sc around placing 1 sc in each st and ch, sl st to join
Fasten off. Rep for second sleeve. Weave in ends.
Code Word: Lane
And that’s how you make the Easy Lane Tee!
Such a fun, quick design.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Cozy Nooks Designs
Rachel Alford from Cozy Nooks Designs was on the PBS TV show Knit and Crochet Now! season 13. She also designs for Lion Brand Yarn, has been in several crochet/knit magazines, and freelances by filming videos for Annie’s online episodes. Be sure to check out her YouTube Channel for tips, tricks, & tutorials!
Hi Rachel, I would love to buy this new pattern for the Easy Lane Tee, but it appears that all the links to the downloadable PDF to purchase are linking to the Easy Airy Tee pattern, not this one. Can you please provide the link to purchase this new pattern either through your website or via Etsy? Thank you – it looks so cute!
I think they’re all fixed now. Thanks for telling me!
Is there a way to modify the neck so it is a bit lower cut, such as a scoop neck or even a v-neck?
You would need to do more rows before you join the left and right front with the chains. <3
I purchased t he pattern and I am having trouble meeting gauge. I have gone up 4 hooks sizes. I am counting the stitch and chain as 1 stitch. Is this common, or do you have any suggestions. I am very excited to make this top. I appreciate your input.
Linda
Linda, are you having trouble meeting the stitch gauge or the row gauge?
i purchased the kit from LBY! i learned how to single crochet rectangles a looong time ago and would like to try this. i’ve never done a gauge swatch before, how exactly should i do that? it says 7.5 linen stitches for 14 rows. should i make my foundation chain 15? does a 0.5 linen stitch mean just a chain or just a single crochet? and what happens on the ends of the rows?
thanks for the clear video, it is really helpful. the LBY kit came with a bamboo hook and i ended up getting a different hook that looks more like yours. so much better, no snags and more comfortable!
Exciting! To make a gauge swatch, you are going to want to make a square that is slightly bigger than the stitches and rows listed. So make one that will have 10 linen sts or so and 18 rows or so. Then measure 4″ and see how many stitches you have in 4″. If you have more than 7.5 sts, that means you need to go up a hook size. If you have less than 7.5 sts, you need to go down a hook size or two. Hope that helps!
that makes so much more sense than doing half a stitch haha! thank you so much