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The Easy Street Sweater is a beginner-friendly raglan pattern with a full video tutorial and picture aids. It features a comfortable scoop neckline that isn’t too wide, low, or tight, making it easy to wear and flattering on everyone. Finished with clean twisted rib edging, this cozy sweater is a simple and relaxing project for any skill level.
Looking for a first time knit sweater pattern?
The Easy Street Sweater is a beginner sweater made from the top down with increases evenly spaced around the top in a raglan-style sweater.
With simple shaping, made in one piece, simple stitches, and a full video tutorial, you can confidently make the Easy Street Sweater as your first beginner knit sweater.
Easy Street Sweater
Pattern Overview:
- Craft: Knit
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Yarn: Worsted Weight 4
- Hook: US 9/5.5 mm & US 8/5.0 mm knitting needles
- Gauge: 17 sts + 22 rows = 4″
- Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
- Video Tutorial: Yes - watch on YouTube
- Downloadable PDF Available
DESCRIPTION
The Easy Street Sweater is part of the Easy Street collection.
Last summer I designed the Easy Street Tee, and y’all loved it so much that I knew I needed to make a sweater version of the design.
The Easy Street Sweater is a raglan design, so the increases are worked evenly around the yoke. The sweater is worked top-down, which makes it perfect to try it on as you go.
There is no seaming, so it is a relaxing sweater made in one piece.
One of my favorite parts of the Easy Street Sweater is the not-too-wide, but not-too-tight collar. I ripped out the collar a few times to get it just right, and I’m so happy with how it looks.
The Easy Street Sweater is worked in one piece from top down starting at the Back in rows and increasing, joining in the round to start the front, splitting at the sleeves and putting the sleeve stitches on hold, and then working the Main Body of the sweater.
The collar, hem, and cuffs are all worked in a twisted rib stitch for a clean, polished ribbing.
The sleeves are picked back up after the Main Body and worked straight until the cuff. Tips are included to help prevent the holes that usually accompany underarm pickup stitches.
If you want to see other designs in the Easy Street line, check them out HERE.
YARN
A classic Lion Brand Yarn yarn is Heartland yarn.
Heartland yarn is a bestseller yarn and considered a staple in a lot of people’s yarn stashes.
You can put Heartland yarn in the washing machine and the dryer, so it is sturdy and easy to maintain. It also has so many colors to choose from, which I think is one of the reasons it is a fan favorite.
There are 37 colors in the Heartland color line, and all of them are such beautiful colors!
Each skein has 251 yards (230 meters) per 5 oz (142 grams).
The yarn is 100% acrylic, so it is a cozy, soft yarn.
I used the color “Kobuk Valley” for the Easy Street Sweater, which is a “light eggplant” color. It is a color that I feel would look good on anyone.
If I made another Easy Street Sweater, I think I would make it “Sequoia”, which is a rich golden brown.
I have been loving the rich brown color recently. Not sure if it is because it is the Pantone 2025 color of the year, or if I have been seeing it tranding in home decor, but either way, I am loving a rich brown.
If you want to stay up to date on yarn sales and when to get a good price, join my newsletter where I’ll clue you in on when there is a good sale. I love a good sale, so I want gate keep. But I also won’t spam you.
DIFFICULTY
The Easy Street Sweater is considered a Level 1 – Beginner pattern.
It is a perfect first sweater pattern for a beginner knitter. No shaping, made in one piece, uses only simple stitches, and it comes with a full video tutorial, so you can follow along with the video to make this beginner knit garment!
To watch the full video tutorial, you can click on the video above, or click HERE.
The majority of the pattern is worked stockinette stitch in the round, which is just knit stitches, so again, a very easy, good beginner knit pattern.
Twisted rib stitches are used for the collar, cuffs, and hem to give the sweater a clean ribbing look. It is a 1 by 1 ribbing, but the knit stitches are worked a little differently than traditional knit stitches.
Instead of knitting like normal, you knit through the back loop, which twists the stitch and gives a nice, polished ribbing. It looks much cleaner than the traditional 1 by 1 ribbing, so it is my favorite way to do ribbing.
Increases are evenly spaced around the yoke using a raglan-style increase technique. There are a specified number of stitch markers evenly spaced around the yoke, and you do an increase one stitch before the stitch marker, and one stitch after the marker. This is what gives the distinct “raglan” line from the collar down to the start of the arms.
KFB (knit front and back) is the stitch increase method used.
The sleeves are worked straight, but an extra stitch is picked up on each side of the underarm pick-up to help minimize gapping in the underarm.
The next round uses a k2tog and a ssk to decrease those 2 extra stitches and cinch the underarm closed.
Overall, a simple top-down sweater. And as always, I am happy to help answer any questions you may have!
MATERIALS
Lion Brand Yarn Heartland, weight 4 (100% acrylic, 251 yds/230 m, 5 oz/142 g)
615 (690, 765, 850, 930, 1010, 1100, 1180, 1240) yds/ 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) balls) – “Kobuk Valley” (136-143T)
- US 9/5.5 mm circular knitting needles, 24”/60 cm long
- US 9/5.5 mm circular knitting needles, 40”/100 cm long
- US 8/5.0 mm circular knitting needles, 24”/60 cm long
- US 8/5.0 mm circular knitting needles, 40”/100 cm long
- Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Holder
GAUGE
17 stitches 22 rows = 4″/10 cm
SIZE
There are 9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
TERMINOLOGY
- BO – bind off
- CO – cast on
- k – knit
- kfb – knit front and back
- k2tog – knit 2 together
- p – purl
- pm – place marker
- pu – pick up
- rep – repeat
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- RS – right side
- ssk – slip, slip, knit
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- tbl – through back loop
- WS – wrong side
NOTES
- Pattern is written for 9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Highlight your size throughout the pattern to avoid confusion.
- Model is 5’7”/167.5 cm and is wearing size Medium with a 38”/95 cm bust and 1.5”/3.75 cm positive ease.
- Sweater is worked top down. It begins by working back and forth in rows for the back and to shape the neckline, and then it is joined in the round.
- Raglan increases are worked evenly spaced.
- Piece is divided at underarms for body and sleeves. Sleeves are put on hold and main body is worked first.
- Sleeves can be worked in your preferred small circumference method. This pattern calls for magic loop, but double pointed needles work as well.
- The neckline is picked up and worked in a twisted rib. The hem of the sleeves and bottom of the tee are also worked in twisted rib.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Knit Front and Back (kfb) –
Knit into the front of stitch like normal, but do not slide stitch off needle. Knit the same stitch through the back loop (tbl). Stitch created.
Backwards Loop Method CO –
Holding yarn in left hand, pass the working yarn around your thumb from back to front, slip the needle under the loop around your thumb, and pull thumb out. Stitch created.
Twisted Rib Stitch –
*Insert needle through the back loop (tbl) of next stitch and knit it. Purl the next stitch as normal. Repeat from *.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
There is a full video tutorial to help you make the Easy Street Sweater. Click HERE to view it.
AD-FREE PREMIUM PDF
Check out my shops if you want to get the concise, ad-free, printable pattern. I have three different shops you can purchase it from or you can purchase the Lion Brand Yarn kit that includes all the yarn needed + the free pattern.
Best part about Lion Brand Yarn kits is that you do not have to choose the colors I used for the design.
You can customize the yarn colors to what you like best!
PATTERN
Using US 9/5.5 mm needles and the Long Tail Cast On, CO 52 (56, 58, 66, 68, 72, 78, 84, 90), do not join.
Row 1 (RS): kfb, pm, kfb, k 8 (9, 9, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), kfb, pm, kfb, k 28 (30, 32, 36, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52), kfb, pm, kfb, k 8 (9, 9, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), kfb, pm, kfb [8 increases; 60 (64, 66, 74, 76, 80, 86, 92, 98) sts]
Row 2 (WS): p
Row 3: kfb, *k to 1 st before next marker, kfb, sm, kfb, rep from * 3 more times, k to last st, kfb [10 increases; 70 (74, 76, 84, 86, 90, 96, 102, 108) sts]
Row 4: p
Rep Rows 3 & 4 for 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) more rows [140 (154, 166, 184, 196, 210, 226, 242, 258) sts]
Row 19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35): rep Row 3 [150 (164, 176, 194, 206, 220, 236, 252, 268) sts]
YOKE
Using the Backwards Loop Method, CO 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts, and pm indicating beginning of rnd, join for knitting in the round [160 (174, 186, 206, 218, 232, 250, 268, 286) sts].
Rnd 1 (RS): *k to 1 st before the next marker, kfb, sm, kfb, rep from * 3 more times, k to end [8 increases; 168 (182, 194, 214, 226, 240, 258, 276, 294) sts]
Rnd 2: k
Rep Rnds 1 & 2, for 11 (13, 17, 17, 23, 23, 27, 27, 27) more rnds [216 (238, 266, 286, 322, 336, 370, 388, 406) sts]
MAIN BODY
Rnd 1 (RS): *k to next marker, remove marker, put sleeve sts on hold, remove marker, CO 2 (4, 6, 8, 8, 12, 12, 14, 15) sts using the Backward Loop Method, rep from * once more. K to end, slip the last marker which indicates beginning of rnd [132 (148, 168, 184, 204, 220, 240, 256, 270) sts]
Rnd 2: k
Rep Rnd 2 until your work measures 21.5 (21.5, 21.5, 21.75, 22, 22.25, 22.5, 22.75, 23) inches /53.5 (53.5, 53.5, 54.5, 55, 55.5, 56, 57, 57.5) cm from back neck CO.
HEM
Using US 8/5.0 mm needles,
Rnd 1 (RS): *k1tbl, p, rep from *
Rnds 2-5: rep Rnd 1
BO.
More free sweater patterns:
Easy Street Tee
Bestseller
If you like the Easy Street Sweater, check out the Bestseller Easy Street Tee! And be sure to stay in the loop of my pattern releases. I am planning on adding more to the Easy Street line.
What clothes/accessories would you like to see?
SLEEVES
Using longer US 9/5.5 mm needles, slip 1 set of sleeve sts onto needles.
Using the magic loop method and starting at underarm, pm, pu 2 (3, 4, 5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 9) st(s), pm for beginning of rnd, pu 2 (3, 4, 5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8) st(s) pm before last picked up st [48 (55, 63, 69, 77, 84, 91, 96, 100) sts].
Rnd 1: k to 1 st before first marker, k2tog, k to end [47 (54, 62, 68, 76, 83, 90, 95, 99) sts]
Rnd 2: k to first marker, ssk, k to end [46 (53, 61, 67, 75, 82, 89, 94, 98) sts]
For Sizes S, M, L, XL, and 3X:
Rnd 3: k to 1 st before first marker, k2tog [- (52, 60, 66, 74, -, 88, -, -) sts]
All Sizes:
Next Rnd: k around [46 (52, 60, 66, 74, 82, 88, 94, 98) sts]
Rep previous rnd until your work measures 17”/42.5 cm inches from underarm.
CUFF
For Size XS:
Rnd 1: *k2tog, k 10, k2tog, k 9, rep from * 2 times total (42 sts)
For Size S:
Rnd 1: *k2tog, k 5, k2tog, k 4, rep from * 4 times total (44 sts)
For Size M:
Rnd 1: k2tog, k2tog, *k2tog, k 2, rep from * 14 times total (44 sts)
For Size L:
Rnd 1: k 3, *k2tog, k 1, rep from * 20 times total, k 3 (46 sts)
For Size XL:
Rnd 1: *k2tog, k2tog, k 1, rep from * 10 times total, **k2tog, k 1, rep from ** 8 times total (46 sts)
For Size 2X:
Rnd 1: *k2tog, k 1, rep from * 14 times total, **k2tog, rep from ** 20 times total (48 sts)
For Size 3X:
Rnd 1: *4 k2tog, k 1, k2tog, rep from * 8 times (48 sts)
For Size 4X:
Rnd 1: k2tog, k2tog, *6 k2tog, k 1, k2tog, rep from * 6 times (50 sts)
For Size 5X:
Rnd 1: k2tog, k 1, *k2tog, rep from * 46 times, k2tog, k 1 (50 sts)
All Sizes:
Using longer US 8/5.0 mm needles,
Rnd 2: *k1tbl, p, rep from *
Rnds 3-6: rep Rnd 1
Rep Sleeve and Cuff section on second sleeve.
COLLAR
For Sizes XS, S, M:
Using US 8/5.0 mm needles, starting at back of neck, pu 72 (76, 84, -, -, -, -, -, -) sts or 1 st in every st along the back of neck and front of neck, 2 sts for every 3 sts along straight side edges, and 10 (10, 12, -, -, -, -, -, -) sts along slanting front sts. Join in the rnd.
Rnd 1 (RS): *k1tbl, p, rep from * [72 (76, 84, -, -, -, -, -, -) sts]
Rnds 2-5: rep Rnd 1
BO.
For Sizes L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X:
Using US 8/5.0 mm needles, starting at back of neck, pu – (-, -, 90, 92, 98, 108, 114, 124) sts or 1 st in every st along the back of neck and front of neck, 1 st for every 2 sts along straight side edges, and – (-, -, 14, 14, 16, 18, 18, 20) sts along slanting front sts. Join in the rnd.
Rnd 1 (RS): *k1tbl, p, rep from * [- (-, -, 90, 92, 98, 108, 114, 124) sts]
Rnds 2-5: rep Rnd 1
BO.
Code Word: Beginner
And that’s how you make the Easy Street Sweater!
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Cozy Nooks Designs
Rachel Alford from Cozy Nooks Designs was on the PBS TV show Knit and Crochet Now! season 13. She also designs for Lion Brand Yarn, has been in several crochet/knit magazines, and freelances by filming videos for Annie’s online episodes. Be sure to check out her YouTube Channel for tips, tricks, & tutorials!
Do you recommend blocking this sweater? If so, how would you recommend doing it?
Thank you so much for the Easy Street Sweater pattern and tutorial. I am excited to knit my first real sweater. (I tried knitting one before, but we won’t talk about that…) I am knitting a size small and on the yoke portion of the sweater it says I should have 238 stitches after 13 more rounds of row 1 and 2. I started with the stated 182 stitches at the first row 1, but am headed to 286 stitches total after 13 more rounds. Thirteen times an increase of 8 each time would add 104 stitches to the beginning 182 stitches for a size small making the total 286 and not 238 as stated on the pattern. Please clarify. As a newbie, I am perfectly aware I may be completely on the wrong track… Thank you for your help!
“rep rnds 1 & 2 for 13 more rnds” means there are only 7 more increase rounds. <3 You do rnds 1 and 2 for 13 rounds meaning you do rnd 1 (the increase rnd) 7 more times. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have more questions!
If you used Heartland yarn like the pattern suggests, I always do steam blocking with acrylic yarn. Wet blocking doesn’t work as well on acrylic. <3
Thank you, that does make sense. I was trying to knit both rows 13 times each! I have much to learn. : )
When doing the YOKE section, shouldn’t R2 be purl? If not, I’m doing only knit rows n ur picture doesn’t look like that is right🙃
It is knit because you now start working in the round. 🙂 So it is still stockinette stitch.
Planning on making this soon, it would be a first for me. But I’m curious, since you’re going back and picking up stitches to add the collar, would it be possible to do a provisional cast on using some stitch saver instead of the long tail cast on?
Yes, you can do it that way, but you will still need to pick up stitches because you will gradually be making the sides and front neck with each row added.
I’m so excited about this
Already done the cast on and stitch markers now starts the show
Thanks so much
God bless