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The Beginner Stripes Sweater was designed for those wanting to make a knit sweater for their first-time. It works up quickly and is made top down, making it easy to try on as you work. This pattern was intentionally designed to set beginners up for success with a full video tutorial and several picture aids.

If you’ve been wanting to knit your very first sweater, this free knit sweater pattern for beginners was designed just for you.

The Beginner Stripes Sweater is an easy, top down knit sweater that works up quickly and allows you to try it on as you go, making it perfect for confident fitting and stress-free knitting.

With a full video tutorial, this beginner-friendly pattern walks you through every step so you can successfully knit your first sweater.

DESCRIPTION

The Beginner Stripes Sweater is a beginner friendly, top down knit sweater designed to help you confidently make your first sweater.

Three contrasting colors are used for the purl stripes that add a pretty contrast to the stockinette sweater.

This raglan sweater pattern begins by working the top of the back flat in rows before joining in the round to continue the yoke. As a raglan style sweater, the increases are evenly spaced around the yoke, creating a comfortable fit and easy-to-follow structure.

Made with weight 6 yarn, this sweater knits up quickly and is a satisfying project from start to finish.

YARN

The yarn used for the Beginner Stripes Sweater is Lion Brand Yarn Hometown.

Hometown yarn is a super bulky weight 6 yarn that is a staple in the weight 6 category.

It is a 100% acrylic yarn and is machine washable and dryable, so it is very easy-to-care for.

There’s 81 yards/74 meters per 5 oz/142 grams in the solid colors.

There are 42 colors in the Hometown yarn line with a mix of tweed, solid, and prints.

I used “Houston Cream” for the base of the sweater with “Hoboken Honey”, “Dillon Quartz” and “Lakeland Olive” as the complementary stripes. It was so fun to choose colors for this project, and I was itching to dive into working with these pretty colors as soon as the yarn arrived.

I recently made a knit basket with this yarn and forgot how much I love working with this weight 6 yarn, so that’s why I chose Hometown for this beginner sweater.

If you want to check out this free knit basket design, click HERE.

If you want to stay up to date on yarn sales and when to get a good price, join my newsletter where I’ll clue you in on when there is a good sale. I love a good sale, so I want gate keep. But I also won’t spam you.

DIFFICULTY

The Beginner Stripes Sweater is a Level 1 – Beginner knit pattern.

I specifically designed this knit pattern to be a perfect first-time knit sweater.

I often see knitters saying they wish they could knit a sweater, but they felt too intimidated to do it. That’s why I made this pattern!

I chose weight 6 yarn so that it would work up quickly and so stitches can easily be seen, which is perfect for knitters.

I also chose top-down, raglan style for the construction, so knitters could try the sweater on as they go and gain confidence to continue making their first sweater.

The majority of the pattern is worked in stockinette stitch, with 1×1 ribbing (knit 1, purl 1) at the hem, cuffs, and collar.

M1R and M1L are the raglan increases used, and you can watch a video HERE if you want a more detailed explanation of how to do these increases.

A few of the larger sizes use some decreases at the sleeves. The decreases used are SSK and k2tog.

This pattern also comes with a full free, YouTube video to aid you in making this raglan sweater. You can stop, pause, rewind, and slow down in sections you need a little extra help in.

And in my premium PDF pattern on etsy, I have several pictures to supplement the pattern.

As always, I’m always happy to answer any questions!

FAQ

Is this pattern good for beginners?

Yes, this pattern is good for beginners. I designed this pattern to be specifically made with beginner knitters in mind. With the full video tutorial, you will be able to pause, rewind, and rewatch any sections.

There are 2 different increases and 2 different decreases (only used for 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X), but these stitches are regularly used throughout knitting, so with a bit of practice, you’ll be able to do the repeat.

Can I use a different yarn?

Yes, but the gauge of the sweater may be affected, so do a gauge swatch so you can meet gauge.

My yarn substitution recommendations would be:

Lion Brand Wool‑Ease Thick Quick Yarn – Classic super bulky yarn with a wool/acrylic blend that gives more warmth and a slightly softer drape.
Lion Brand Heartland Thick & Quick Yarn– Super bulky with rich heathered shades and plenty of yardage, great for sweaters.
Premier Basix Super Bulky Yarn – Great budget-friendly super bulky option that works up fast and is machine washable.

My favorite website to use to find good yarn substations is https://yarnsub.com/

What if my gauge is off?

Too many stitches in a 4″x4″ swatch?

→ The fabric is too tight, so you need to go up a needle size.

Too few stitches in a 4″ x 4″ swatch?

→ The fabric is too loose, so you need to go down a needle size.

Can I sell items from this knit pattern?

Yes.

MATERIALS

- 328 (370, 400, 442, 490, 535, 570, 614, 651) yds/300 (338, 366, 404, 443, 489, 518, 561, 595) m/5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls of Lion Brand Yarn Hometown, “Houston Cream” (135-098P), weight 6, 100% acrylic, 81 yds/74 m, 5 oz/142 g (A)
- 45 (51, 55, 61, 67, 74, 78, 84, 90) yds/41 (47, 50, 56, 61, 68, 71, 77, 82) m/1 ball of Lion Brand Yarn Hometown, “Hoboken Honey” (135-123Y), weight 6, 100% acrylic, 81 yds/74 m, 5 oz/142 g (B)
- 33 (37, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65) yds/30 (34, 37, 40, 45, 48, 52, 56, 59) m/1 ball of Lion Brand Yarn Hometown, “Dillon Quartz” (135-140V), weight 6, 100% acrylic, 81 yds/74 m, 5 oz/142 g (C)
- 37 (42, 45, 50, 55, 60, 64, 69, 73) yds/34 (38, 41, 46, 50, 55, 59, 63, 67) m/1 ball of Lion Brand Yarn Hometown, “Lakeland Olive” (135-179D), weight 6, 100% acrylic, 81 yds/74 m, 5 oz/142 g (D)
- US 13/9.0 mm knitting needles, 32”/80 cm circular
- US 10.5/6.5 mm knitting needles, 32”/80 cm circular
- US 10.5/6.5 mm knitting needles, 16”/40 cm circular
- Stitch Holders or Waste Yarn
- Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle

GAUGE

9 sts & 13 rows = 4″/10 cm in stockinette stitch

8.5 sts x 12 rnds = 4”/10 cm with US 10.5/6.5 mm needles in ribbing

SIZE

9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X)

TERMINOLOGY

A – color A
B – color B
BO – bind off
C – color C
CO – cast on
D – color D
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
M1L – make 1 left
M1R – make 1 right
p – purl
pm – place marker
pu – pick up
rep – repeat
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
ssk – slip, slip, knit
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side

NOTES

Pattern is written for 9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Highlight your size throughout the pattern for ease of reading.
When reading pattern, if a size is marked by “-”, that means do not do the instruction for your size.
Model is 5’7”/170 cm & is wearing size Medium with a 38”/96.5 cm bust & 5–6″ (14–15 cm) of positive ease.
Left Sleeve and Right Sleeve refers to when the sweater is worn.
Sweater is worked top down starting with the back neck, yoke, splitting for sleeves and putting sleeve sts on hold, working the main body, and the hem. Sleeves are picked back up and worked in the round. The collar is added at the end.
Sweater begins by working back and forth in rows for the back and to shape the neckline, and then it is joined in the round.
Place sts on waste yarn or stitch holder to try on sweater as you go to check fit and length.
Raglan sts are marked and an increase is worked on each side of marked sts.
Sleeves can be worked in your preferred small circumference method. This pattern calls for magic loop, but double pointed needles work as well.
Sleeves are worked in a straight stockinette for the majority of the pattern (minus the stripes) and decreases are worked at the cuff for some of the sizes.
The neckline is picked up and worked in a 1 x 1 rib. The hem of the sleeves and bottom of the sweater are also worked in 1 x 1 rib.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Increase Sts:

M1R – watch video HERE

Pick up the strand between the 2 sts with the left needle from the back to the front
Insert the tip of the right needle knitwise into the front leg of the strand and knit as usual

M1L –

Pick up the strand between the 2 sts with the left needle from the front to the back
Knit through the back loop

Decrease Sts:

ssk –

Slip 1 st knitwise, slip the next st knitwise
Insert left needle into fronts of those two sts
Knit them together through the back loops

k2tog –

Insert right needle into 2 sts knitwise
Knit them together

Backwards Loop Method CO –

Holding yarn in left hand, pass the working yarn around your thumb from back to front, slip the needle under the loop around your thumb, and pull thumb out. Stitch created.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

There is a full video tutorial to help you make the Beginner Stripes Sweater. You can view it HERE.

AD-FREE PREMIUM PDF

Check out my shops if you want to get the concise, ad-free, printable pattern. I have three different shops you can purchase it from or you can purchase the Lion Brand Yarn kit that includes all the yarn needed + the free pattern.

Best part about Lion Brand Yarn kits is that you do not have to choose the colors I used for the design.

You can customize the yarn colors to what you like best!

Beginner Stripes Sweater

PATTERN

Using A, US 13/9.0 mm needles, and a Long Tail Cast On, CO 43 (34, 36, 39, 32, 40, 36, 34, 32),

Mark raglan sts on following row:

Row 1 (WS): p1, pm, p1, pm, p11 (7, 7, 7, 4, 7, 5, 4, 2), pm, p1, pm, p15 (14, 16, 19, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22), pm, p1, pm, p11 (7, 7, 7, 4, 7, 5, 4, 2), pm, p1, pm, p1 [43 (34, 36, 39, 32, 40, 36, 34, 32) sts]

On the following RS row, work a M1R and a M1L on either side of the marked raglan st,

Row 2 (RS): k1, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k11 (7, 7, 7, 4, 7, 5, 4, 2), M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k15 (14, 16, 19, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22), M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k11 (7, 7, 7, 4, 7, 5, 4, 2), M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k1 [8 increases: 51 (42, 44, 47, 40, 48, 44, 42, 40) sts]

Row 3: p

On RS rows, work a M1R and a M1L on either side of the marked raglan st and at the beginning and end of each row,

Row 4: k1, M1L, k to first marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marked st, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1 [10 increases: 61 (52, 54, 57, 50, 58, 54, 52, 50) sts]

Row 5: p

Rows 6-7 (11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17): rep Rows 4 & 5, 1 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) time(s) [71 (82, 94, 107, 100, 118, 114, 112, 110) sts]

Divided Raglan Sections:

6 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts (left front), 1 raglan st, 17 (17, 19, 21, 18, 23, 21, 20, 18) sts (left sleeve), 1 raglan st, 21 (24, 28, 33, 32, 36, 36, 36, 38) sts (back), 1 raglan st, 17 (17, 19, 21, 18, 23, 21, 20, 18) sts (right sleeve), 1 raglan st, 6 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts (right front)

Yoke

Using A (joining in the round),

Rnd 1 (RS): k1, M1L, k to first marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1, using the Backwards Loop CO Method, CO 7 (2, 2, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4), do not twist your work, join in the round, k to first raglan st, place beginning of rnd st marker, rnds will now begin here [88 (94, 106, 120, 112, 130, 126, 124, 124) sts]

Rnd 2: k to end, do not slip beginning of rnd marker

Rnd 3: M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to end of rnd [8 increases: 96 (102, 114, 128, 120, 138, 134, 132, 136) sts]

For sizes 3X, 4X and 5X:

Rep Rnds 2 & 3, – (-, -, -, -, -, 1, 2, 2) times [- (-, -, -, -, -, 142, 148, 148) sts]

All Sizes:

Using B (do not break A),

Rnd 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8): k

Rnd 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 9, 9): p, do not slip beginning of rnd marker

Break B.

Using A,

Rnd 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 10, 10): M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, k to end of rnd [8 increases: 104 (110, 122, 136, 128, 146, 150, 156, 156) sts]

Rnd 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 9, 11, 11): k to end, do not slip beginning of rnd marker

Rnds 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12)-11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 15, 15): rep previous 2 rnds, twice [16 increases: 120 (126, 138, 152, 144, 162, 166, 172, 172) sts]

Rnd 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16): M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, k to end of rnd [8 increases: 128 (134, 146, 160, 152, 170, 174, 180, 180) sts]

Using C (do not break A),

Rnd 13 (13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15, 17, 17): k to end

Rnd 14 (14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 18, 18): p to end, do not slip beginning of rnd marker

Break C.

Using A,

Rnd 15 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 17, 19, 19): M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to next marker, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, k to end of rnd [8 increases: 136 (142, 154, 168, 160, 178, 182, 188, 188) sts]

Rnd 16 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 20, 20): k to end, do not slip beginning of rnd marker

Rnds 17 (17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 19, 21, 21)-18 (18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22): rep previous 2 rnds [8 increases: 144 (150, 162, 176, 168, 186, 190, 196, 196) sts]

Divided Raglan Sections:

1 raglan st, 33 (33, 35, 37, 34, 39, 39, 40, 38) sts (left sleeve), 1 raglan st, 37 (40, 44, 49, 48, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts (back), 1 raglan st, 33 (33, 35, 37, 34, 39, 39, 40, 38) sts (right sleeve), 1 raglan st, 37 (40, 44, 49, 48, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts (front)

Main Body

Remove all st markers that indicate raglan sts, raglan sts are part of the Main Body,

Using A (putting sleeve sts on hold),

Rnd 1 (RS): k1, put 33 (33, 35, 37, 34, 39, 39, 40, 38) sleeve sts on hold, CO 1 (3, 3, 3, 8, 9, 11, 14, 16) sts using the Backward Loop Method, k37 (40, 44, 49, 48, 52, 54, 56, 58), put 33 (33, 35, 37, 34, 39, 39, 40, 38) sleeve sts on hold, CO 1 (3, 3, 3, 8, 9, 11, 14, 16) sts using the Backward Loop Method, k to end [80 (90, 98, 108, 116, 126, 134, 144, 152) sts]

Rnds 2-3: k to end

Using D (do not break A),

Rnd 4: k to end

Rnd 5: p to end

Break D.

Using A,

Rnds 6-12: k to end

Using B (do not break A),

Rnds 13-14: rep Rnds 4 & 5

Break B.

Using A,

Rnds 15-21: k to end

Using C (do not break A),

Rnds 22-23: rep Rnds 4 & 5

Break C.

Using A,

Rnds 24-30: k to end

Using D (do not break A),

Rnds 31-32: rep Rnds 4 & 5

Break D.

Using A,

Rnds 33-38 (37, 35, 35, 35, 34, 34, 33, 33): k to end

Hem

Using US A and US 10.5/6.5 mm needles,

Rnds 1-4: *k1, p1, rep from *

Break A.

Using B,

Rnds 5-6: *k1, p1, rep from *

BO in pattern.

Sleeves

Using A and US 13/9.0 mm needles, slip 1 set of sleeve sts onto needles.

Using the magic loop method and starting at underarm, pu 1 (3, 3, 3, 8, 9, 11, 14, 16) sts from the underarm CO.

Pm for beginning of rnd in the middle of pu underarm sts [34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 48, 50, 54, 54) sts].

Rnd 1 (RS): k to end [34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 48, 50, 54, 54) sts]

Rnds 2-3: k to end

Using D (do not break A),

Rnd 4: k to end

Rnd 5: p to end

Break D.

Using A,

Rnds 6-12: k to end

Using B (do not break A),

Rnd 13: rep Rnd 4

Rnd 14: rep Rnd 5

Break B.

For Sizes XS, S, M, L, and XL:

Using A,

Rnd 15: k to end

For Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X:

Using A,

Rnd 15: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk [- (-, -, -, -, 46, 48, 52, 52) sts]

All Sizes:

Rnds 16-21: k to end

Using C (do not break A),

Rnd 22: rep Rnd 4

Rnd 23: rep Rnd 5

Break C.

For Sizes XS, S, M, L, and XL:

Using A,

Rnd 24: k to end

For Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X:

Using A,

Rnd 24: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk [- (-, -, -, -, 44, 46, 50, 50) sts]

All Sizes:

Rnds 25-30: k to end

Using D (do not break A),

Rnd 31: rep Rnd 4

Rnd 32: rep Rnd 5

Break D.

For Sizes XS, S, M, L, and XL:

Using A,

Rnd 33: k to end

For Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X:

Using A,

Rnd 33: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk [- (-, -, -, -, 42, 44, 48, 48) sts]

All Sizes:

Using A,

Rnds 34-39: k to end

Using B (do not break A),

Rnd 40: rep Rnd 4

Rnd 41: rep Rnd 5

Break B.

For Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2X:

Using A,

Rnd 42: k to end

For Sizes 3X, 4X, and 5X:

Using A,

Rnd 42: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk [- (-, -, -, -, -, 42, 46, 46) sts]

All Sizes:

Using A,

Rnds 43-44: k to end

Cuff

Using A and US 10.5/6.5 mm needles,

Rnd 1: *k1, p1, rep from * to end

Rnds 2-9: rep Rnd 1

Break A.

Using C,

Rnds 10-11: rep Rnd 1

BO in pattern.

Rep Sleeve and Cuff section on second sleeve.

Collar

For Sizes XS, S, M, and XL:

Using A and US 10.5/6.5 mm needles,

Starting at the back right of neck, pick up 15 (14, 16, -, 18, -, -, -, –) sts along the back neckline, about 2 out of every 3 along the straight side edges [7 (5, 5, -, 3, -, -, -, -) sts], approximately 1 st per row along the slanting front sts [5 (11, 10, -, 12, -, -, -, -)], and 7 (2, 2, -, 2, -, -, -, -) sts along the front neckline. Pm and join in the rnd.

For Sizes L, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X:

Using A and US 10.5/6.5 mm needles,

Starting at the back right of neck, pick up – (-, -, 19, -, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts along the back neckline, about 2 out of every 3 along the straight side edges [- (-, -, 5, -, 5, 3, 3, 1) sts], 1 out of every 2 along the slanting front sts [- (-, -, 8, -, 9, 9, 9, 9)], and – (-, -, 3, -, 2, 2, 2, 4) sts along the front neckline. Pm and join in the rnd.

All Sizes:

Using A and US 10.5/6.5 mm needles,

Rnd 1 (RS): *k1, p1, rep from * [46 (48, 48, 48, 50, 50, 46, 46, 46) sts]

Rnds 2-4: rep Rnd 1

Using D,

Rnds 5-6: rep Rnd 1

BO in pattern.

And that’s how you make the Beginner Knit Sweater!

Such a warm, cute sweater that I can’t wait to wear all season.

More free sweater patterns:

Code Word: Stripes

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cozy Nooks Designs

Rachel Alford from Cozy Nooks Designs was on the PBS TV show Knit and Crochet Now! season 13. She also designs for Lion Brand Yarn, has been in several crochet/knit magazines, and freelances by filming videos for Annie’s online episodes. Be sure to check out her YouTube Channel for tips, tricks, & tutorials!